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Batterij Kabels en zekering probleem Hi All Ik heb een zware winter gehad voor mijn Z3. Hij heeft in december gereden. Maar vorst en water gaven me een probleem met de batterijkabels. Om meer te krijgen met mijn oude auto (1997 Z3 E36), moet ik enkele kabels van mijn accu vervangen. Tevens een zekering (70). Kunt u mij adviseren welke onderdelen of waar ik ze kan kopen? Zoals je kunt zien op de foto, veel roest 😞 mvg Eric Foto

Another question. Should I try to reset all the modules? I have now the details how to? Just to see if there are more errors defined?

Hi All Thanks to Pim who was kind enough to lend me his ODB reader I finally got one code called E and then 10. The E stands for error when the OBD reader cannot get all data and a eventually a reset is needed ( as I have read and the plug was well put into the connector) . I do have oil services and the airbag lamp (goes away after 2 min) burning on the dashboard so hence this could be the reason for the E. Hence what I have understood its a crankshaft sensor issue. Any comments are more then welcome. cheers

I think i should get an OBD reader........

I have just realized that the click I heard from the engine is from the box (near the jump cable position (red cross)). where the DME is located. I thought this was interesting. I have tried to locate the fuel pump relay and wasnt sure which one was what. Took some pictures of the fuses for any support.

I am using this document to help me. Could be handy for others as well. Will check DME and the fuel relay http://www.wedophones.com/Manuals/BMW/2000%20BMW%20Z3%20-%20M%20Roadster%20-%20Z3%20-%20M%20Coupe%20Electrical%20Troubleshooting%20Manual.pdf

I doubt if my key has a RFID chip since I only see the key light as a function. This is an old model. How would one solve the matter with the EWSII module?, I will try tomorrow to start with more space between the attempts. Anyway ways to check the fuel pump functioning? Didnt hear any sounds behind the passenger seat.

Could it be the fuel pump?

well, my fuse collection has a wonderful german language...anyway I couldn't find the fuse diagram on your link. I am staring to think its around the starter/alternator and even perhaps the solenoid connections. I believe you should measure the voltage around there to see if at ;east voltage is getting there? I could try a push start but doing that alone isnt easy. Anyway, hope more comments will come up. cheers

Thx. I do think its electrical (gremlin indeed) but finding someone with an OBD reader nearby uithoorn/mijdrecht is more then welcome to help out and check.I will check all the fuses. Any numbers in particular I need to double check? FYI i also have the following: I get the "check oil because the bar is now yellow on the dashboard") I have added oil but believe this is something you will need to reset after a checkup. Also my airbag sign is on for 2 min and then disappears. This has been going on for a few months. I am aware this car needs to go through a good check but would like it to start..to at least get to the garage..:-) cheers

Bedankt...maar niemand die mij suggesties kan geven voor de staart problemen.? :-(

Dear All, Sorry to write this in English. Hope its ok. I just had a great year driving the Z3. It hasn't given me any problems so far until recently. A serious one where the car simply doesn't start. Its kinda ironic since I need to get an "APK keuring"before the 18th of March. Now I just want the car to drive me to a garage and get what you call a "beurt". I will list my issues according the severity. Starter problem I had my alternator/starter replaced last year. Also bought a new battery. The car started brilliantly until just recently. I have tested the battery (all good), checked some of the fuses (not sure if I have checked all correctly) and even started (to be sure) with a start cable. I can hear the starter working but somehow no ignition to the engine takes place. I can hear a click on the right side of the engine (which goes on and off) The "toerenteller", whilst trying to start moves up and down, though no engine is running. And yes, there is gas in the car..:-) Since I have serious "vocht" problems in the trunk (will explain later in this topic) I checked the corrosion of the connectors to the battery. Any suggestions? "Vocht problems" in the trunk I know this is a known problem on the Z3. I first made sure to create a temporary cover for the long lamp on the trunk hood. This didn't help since I still get allot of water inside the trunk. I believe , when getting the car, that the garage didn't mount the softtop correctly hence intake of rain water in the water takes place. Now I would like to have this problem solved for good. I also have a faint feeling that the cars electronics is playing a game with me hence the above starter problem. Although it didn't start in a period where it was dry. Any guidelines what to do here? If you need more questions asked please feel free to do so. I am also looking for a garage near the Mijdrecht area (ruud is a bit too far for this matter I think, although he did help me to diagnosis the cardon issue last year; not sure if I spelled it correctly) I can read Dutch so no issues there. Hope you can support me. cheers Eric

simply the cardan. did make an update on the topic..:-(

Visited Ruud and found out that it is the cardan. Hope I spelled this right. Not the best information since its getting a higher cost to get this car. I have contacted the garage where I bought the car from to complain. I have already had allot of repairs so far and have not been lucky so far. If nothing comes up, then we always have Roodkaapje.:-)...time to save some money... Anyway, was great to meet Ruud and other z2 enthusiasts. He also mentioned the even on the 1st Thursday in the month. May be a nice idea to meet fellow z3 owners..:-)

Ok cool Diagnose solved: Its the alternator. How this was determined: Symptoms: 1. New Battery empty 2. Strange sound, almost whining determined in the engine compartment (pls see above video) 3. A distinct smell of burned electricity Diagnose Approach: 1. Either charge your battery or jump start the car by using another car with jump cables 2. Once the car is running check voltage with a Voltmeter on two places (range 20v) 1. on the battery to check if the alternator charges the battery. 2. Under the hood left top side, measure the voltage. In my case the charge of battery did take place but was low (around and under 13 V). The volt under the hood (what the engine gets, was just 12 hence showing that the electric power comes from the battery more then the alternator. 3. As advised by Leon (thx mate) take the belt off and see if the sound disappeared. The sound indeed came from the alternator. Conclusion: New alternator to be replaced I have to say that I needed to go to a garage for this. I didn't dare to take the cable off but the steps for diagnose was agreed and even p[partly suggested by the garage. Hence now the car is waiting for the alternator to be replaced. Thanks for your support guys. It helps to learn more about your car but also ensure some practice to diagnose with a garage so the costs of unnecessary repairs are avoided. My so called unnecessary damage this time is simply a new car battery. And of-course the cost for replacement which is around 200 - 300 euro;s cheers